Wednesday, October 8, 2008

The Citadel

Today, October 8 is Henri Christophe's birthday. He was a "fearless" general during Haiti's war of independence from France. He was considered one of Haiti's three "founding fathers." Shortly, after Independence Day, January 1, 1804, the new republic was divided in-two when he declared himself Roi Christophe, Roi du Nord - King Christophe, King of the North.

From i'ts very beginning, Haiti has had difficulty with political stability and peaceful transition. Christophe fought for freedom and democracy, but instituted himself as a monarch! He defeated the French, but was never accepted by the English, the country and monarchy which he worshipped.

Christophe's declaration of Haiti being divided between north and south was the beginning of 200 years of geographical/political/racial struggles for Ayiti. With only a little exaggeration, you might imagine the north of Haiti as the weaker, poorer, African (blacker) half, while the south as the stronger, richer, mixed (mulatto) half of the country. This is an over-simplification, but it a story that has been repeated for two centuries.

Christophe was always afraid that the French, especially Napoleon, would return to Haiti to recapture its wealth. In preparation and defense of this attack, which never occurred, Christophe directed the construction of The Citadel. It is truly monumental - amazingly huge, built on top of 3000 ft peak with a 180 degree panorama of the northern coastline, taking over 10 years to complete with over over 20,000 workers dying on the project. 365 cannons were installed in the Citadel, but not one was fired. At their base, the walls are 30 feet thick, behind them there was a hospital, a dungeon, a foundry, many kitchens and storerooms, a chapel, an arsenal, and private quarters for the Roi Christophe and his queen. When completed in 1816 it could house, 15,000 soldiers and the entire population of Milot.

I took this picture from the window of the small 12-seater airplane which travels between Cap-Haitien and Port-au-Prince.

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